date = 2010-11-07
distance = 12.9
So, what's the big deal about Big Sur? I didn't know until now, but now
I think I get it. Big Sur is an eighty mile coastal area extending from
Carmel south. It's dotted with amenities like bakeries and galleries
tucked into the redwoods between glimpes of the ocean. Glimpses to us,
because it was all fogged over today. A fellow cycle tourist advised us
to take in the area as it's the untouched coastline of central
California. In my head I'm thinking of all the wildness that is BC.
But they certainly do have something special going on here.
About every 2 miles after we left our campsite there was something
intriguing about the roadside stops. They hinted at the character of
the place. Out of desire to make way, you just can't stop everywhere,
and having made a late start from the campsite we bypassed the bakery
and the Henry Miller memorial library. But by the time we reached the
Coast Gallery which boasts a cafe atop a retrofitted water tank the rain
was coming down and visibility along this already treacherous roadway
wasn't good. After lunch and seeing the weather worsen we were prodded
by the gallery owner to stay off the road. We agreed it would be wise
not to continue south and to cycle 2 miles back to the closest inn.
Well, here we are in the Franklin room of Deetjen's Big Sur Inn. This
place is steeped in history and quality and serenity. The cabins are
handcrafted with scavenged redwood by a Norwegian with great foresight.
He built it in the 1930's before Hwy 1 was even built. Photographs of
who I think is Jack Kerouac line the dining room walls. The local paper
advises that Big Sur is a place to do nothing. And past transients have
written their personal stories of restoration in the Franklin room
journal. We've been milling about our spacious room with fireplace
drinking wine and had a well crafted meal in the restaurant. We are so
lucky to be able to treat ourselves to a stay here on this rainy day.
What a find.
[photo in front of our room the next morning when the storm had cleared]